Subtraction Cutting 

“Rubbish Theory relates to the creation and destruction of value within manmade objects, cultural artifacts, and even ideas. As a social scientist, Thompson became interested in the ways which objects carry an economic or cultural value, which diminishes over time, to the point where they become redundant and worthless. However, Thompson noted that some objects then begin to accrue value once more.”

^{Noble, I & Bestley R, 2016, p 194}

Julian Roberts presented a lecture that introduced his method called Subtraction Cutting. Using large rectangular pieces of fabric, the bodice of a dress was invertly cut so the front and back panels remained and the space between was removed. Random circles were also cut out and when the item was constructed, these circles were joined, to create billowing, folds of fabric. The final garments were beautiful parachute style dresses. 

Continuing on with my research and intent on subverting Fast Fashion and the concept of taking items that have been deemed valueless and giving them a new value, as per Thompson’s theory above, I wanted to play with Subtraction Cutting in my work. As I didn’t have large sheets of fabric but instead the clothing that was given to me from the charity shop, I opted for a different approach that I’d seen in Julians work called typographic cutting. I opted to deconstruct the word ‘Trash’ again, to reiterate that this fabric had been thrown away.

I selected my least favourite item from the charity shop clothes, a Primark jumpsuit in what can only be described as baby blanket material. With the idea of slogans and messaging hiding in plain sight, I cut out the letters T-R-A-S-h. Using a mannequin, I placed the letters around the form, utilising the shapes within the letters that lent themselves to certain clothing patterns. In particular, the curve of the ‘h’ and the middle of the ‘R’ created arm holes. I then sewed the edges of the letters to themselves and the other letters until some semblance of a garment appeared.  

As the pattern grew with the addition of each letter, the strong vertical lines that were in the original jumpsuit, fragmented. Instead, new shapes and folds formed.

I also utilised the shoe laces that were in the bag from the charity shop to attach some of the layers together; using the holes already in the fabric as pre-made eyelets to join the layers together, in a chainlink pattern that was seen frequently in the Greenham Common visuals. 

Feature image : Roberts, J. [@subtractioncutting]. (2022, September, 17). Demonstrated some typographic cutting inspired by @holly_mcquillan. Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/p/Cim-0beNrcJ/?igshid=MTc4MmM1YmI2Ng%3D%3D

References

Noble, I & Bestley R (2016) Visual research : An introduction to research methods in graphic design (3rd edition). Bloomsbury.